“Look younger in just days!” “Experience anti-aging like never before!” Sound familiar? Every day you are thrown a myriad of information about new cosmetics claiming to make you younger, more beautiful and more confident. So how is a girl to sift through it all? Just sit back and let us do the work for you. We’ve uncovered which ingredients in your makeup are proven to help you put your best face forward.


Beauty experts differ about the effectiveness of many ingredients in cosmetics, but one thing they are unanimous about is the importance of moisturizing properties. Leslie Baumann, MD, a professor of dermatology at the University of Miami and author of the New York Times bestseller, The Skin Type Solution, says we should always use a moisturizer on clean, dry skin before applying makeup. But because we want our makeup to help our skin as opposed to drying it out, products with moisturizing properties are a good choice.

Shea butter is a natural fat extracted from the fruit of the shea tree and is one of the most well-known and beneficial skin softening agents used in cosmetics. Bobbi Brown EXTRA SPF 25 Tinted Moisturizing Balm ($50, amazon.com) combines shea butter, glycerin and squalane, a highly refined olive oil used to maintain skin’s moisture. Recommended by Jonith Breadon, MD, a dermatologist at Aesthetic Dermatology and Laser Surgery in Chicago, squalane is easily absorbed and is often in foundations and mascaras.

Glycerin, according to the American Academy of Dermatology, is one of the most common substances to promote water retention in moisturizers. This chemical compound holds water in the skin to prevent dryness. In addition to foundations, lip glosses like Neutrogena Lip Boost, Intense Moisture Therapy .3 oz (9.1 g) ($6.59, amazon.com) contain glycerin. Another ingredient to look out for is aloe vera, cited by the Mayo Clinic as both a moisturizer and anti-inflammatory. Try Almay Smart Shade Makeup with SPF 15, Light/Medium 200, 1-Ounce Tubes (Pack of 2) ($12.65, amazon.com) and Maybelline Line Stylist Eyeliner 600 ($5.99, amazon.com).

You’ve heard it before, but I’ll tell you again: The best form of protection is prevention (and yes, I’m still talking about your skin!). “Ninety percent of skin aging is due to sun damage,” Dr. Breadon says. Choose a morning moisturizer with an SPF of at least 15, but read the labels carefully. Most SPF products protect against UVA, but those labeled "broad spectrum” protect against both UVA and UVB radiation

Titanium dioxide, a compound often found in sunscreens, offers some sun protection in cosmetics, says Angela Bowers, MD, owner and physician of Southlake Dermatology in Southlake, TX. Interestingly though, SPF in makeup alone does not provide a sufficient amount of protection. “Most people need to use 7 times the normal amount of foundation and 14 times the normal amount of powder to achieve the SPF on the label,” Dr. Bauman explains. “One teaspoon is the correct amount of facial moisturizer to use. If you use a moisturizing sunscreen you need to put on 1.5 times the normal amount.” You can layer Maybelline’s Dream Matte Mousse Foundation with titanium dioxide ($8.79, amazon.com) over sun-light protection creme with chamomile SPF 30 ($32, amazon.com) for a positively protected face.

Because of its light-reflective properties, titanium dioxide is also a popular ingredient in mineral makeup. Many women enjoy mineral makeup for its lightweight quality and surprisingly thorough coverage but Dr. Bowers says “minerals” have not been proven to benefit the skin. Mineral products can be beneficial, however, because they lack some ingredients that irritate skin, such as talc fillers found in liquid or cream foundations. “Patients with sensitive skin conditions such as rosacea, eczema and acne will find oil-free and preservative-free mineral makeup very skin friendly,” says Dr. Breadon, who recommends the Glo Minerals brand (glominerals.com) for its inclusion of titanium dioxide.


When formulated properly at a low pH and sealed in an airtight tube, vitamin C can serve as much more than your morning beverage. According to an article published in 2000 in Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, “Vitamin C is a valuable antioxidant and protectant against photodamage created by both UVB and UVA bands.” But vitamin C is not a sunscreen. Instead, it “augments the skin’s ability to neutralize free-radical damage that is created by ultraviolet radiation, thereby preventing photodamage to the skin,” the journal reports. Look for vitamin C in suncreens and tinted moisturizers like Paula’s Choice Barely There Sheer Matte Tint SPF 20 ($14.95, paulaschoice.com).

Another antioxidant, vitamin E, similarly helps decrease the frequency and severity of sun damage, according to the Journal of Molecular Medicine. Unlike vitamin C, however, vitamin E is fat soluble and therefore offers the benefits of an emulsion, which hydrates the skin’s surface. This makes the vitamin a popular ingredient in foundations like Origins Stay Tuned Balancing face makeup #10 - Latte 1 fl.oz New in Box ($16, amazon.com). To get some of this good stuff on your extra delicate eyelid skin try a Neutrogena Nourishing Eye Duo, Fairy Dust 40, .14 -Ounce Packages (Pack of 2) ($16.20, amazon.com), which comes with two eye shadows that contain both vitamins C and E.

Another powerful but less widely known antioxidant is grapeseed extract, a by-product of winemaking. A 2001 article in Current Pharmaceutical Biotechnology notes that grapeseed extract contains proanthocyanidins, which are potent antioxidants helpful for diminishing the sun’s damaging effects. Grapeseed extract is found in facial creams, sunscreens and foundations like Almay Nearly Naked Touch-Pad Liquid Makeup with SPF 12, Neutral 220, 0.5-Ounce Packages (Pack of 2) ($14.99, amazon.com).

Have a skin problem you need to fix now? Thanks to modern science, plenty of ingredients will fighting the good fight for you.

For years, you’ve kept half-used anti-acne creams in the back of your medicine cabinet for that one special ingredient that you know will pull you out of a pimple dilemma: salicylic acid. Also known as beta hydroxy acid (BHA), salicylic acid penetrates the skin, allowing it to exfoliate inside the pore as well as on the surface. This makes it a gem for reducing blemishes. Products such as the Clinique Acne Solutions Concealing Stick ($13.50, clinique.com) are going beyond their call of duty to not only cover up, but to clear up skin as well.

Need to lighten up? Both Drs. Breadon and Baumann suggest soy, also known as glycine soja, as a useful ingredient to lighten dark patches on the skin. Ramsey Markus, MD, of Baylor College of Medicine's Department of Dermatology agrees that soy is particularly helpful in lightening skin color and smoothing skin texture after sun damage. Try Revlon Age Defying All Day Lifting Foundation in Normal/Combination Skin ($11.69, drugstore.com).

While no cosmetic will deliver miracle results overnight, make sure to check product labels for these beneficial ingredients.

• Replace mascara every 2 to 3 months. The preservatives in mascara weaken over time, making it more susceptible to bacterial growth that can cause conjunctivitis, or pinkeye.
• Replace your eyeshadows and eyeliners every 6 to 12 months. Bright blue won’t be in style much longer anyway.
• Lip liners and lipsticks will last for up to a year, but because these products are being applied so closely to the mouth, you might want to replace them every 3 to 6 months to avoid any bacteria that may collect on the product.
• Replace your foundation and blush (cream and powder) every 6 to 12 months. Wash application sponges weekly and replace them once a month. If you are acne prone use a disposable applicator to prevent the spread of acne-causing bacteria.
• Good brushes may last for years, but wash them at least every 4 months. If using brushes to apply “wet” cosmetics such as foundation or eyeliner, cleanse brushes daily. Use a brush cleaner, like Sephora Purifying Brush Shampoo ($6 for 2 oz, sephora.com), or try a makeup remover. Or, for an excellent homemade disinfectant, mix 1 part vinegar with 2 parts water. Never share brushes to avoid spreading eye and skin infections.

• Always seal the lids of your cosmetic containers when you are finished.
• Keep your makeup in a cool, dry place (no humid showers or hot beach bags). The heat can destroy preservatives in your makeup.
• Store your brushes in a drawer, or in a jar or vase with the bristles up, as to not misshape them.

About the Author: Deenie Hartzog is a freelance writer based in Brooklyn, NY.